My solar panels have had me thinking about reducing my energy usage. I’ve already talked about Why I’m Replacing all of my Lights with LED’s. I also want to be more efficient in the way they are used.
I used to manually turn on/off my front outside lights since I leave them running at night. This means lights are on part of the day and off part of the night, I can’t remember or get up early enough to make this efficient. This is where the timers come into play. You can get some lighting timers which are wired into your home, but you’d best visiting a site like https://inphaseelectric.com/service-areas/electrical-services-in-waukesha/ and having a professional wire them for you, or, you can get lights that are triggered by a sensor which are pretty easy to install yourself.
So on the front of my house, I’ve got two lanterns next to my door. I’ve replaced these lanterns with LED’s I bought from Amazon. Each lantern holds 3 candelabra style bulbs for a total of 6.
I also have two more lanterns on either side of my garage. These lanterns only hold one bulb each, a standard size bulb.
The bulbs below are the actual bulbs I’m using. You won’t see me advertising any products that I don’t use and would not hesitate to buy again.
So far I’m really happy with both of these products:

Feit Electric LED Dimmable CFC Candelabra Base 4.8watt/40watt 300 Lumens (3-Pack)

FEIT Electric LED Light Bulb A19 3 Pack 40W Replacement Uses 7.5W 500 Lumens Dimmable
My lights in front of the garage are on a three-way switch. Basically there are two switches that can turn these lights off and on. That’s all this mean.
There are different dimmers depending on whether you have a 2-way or 3-way light. So determine what you have by the number of switches you can control the lights with. The standard is the 2-way which I already replaced. The 3-way below is very similar. Safety ALWAYS comes first when it comes to any job in the home involving electricity. I’m pretty confident doing this type of DIY but it goes without saying that, if you’re not comfortable with what needs doing, it’s best to call in a professional like barnettelectrical.com/service-areas/the-village-electricians/ who can do the work safely for you.
I used a Honeywell timer I bought from Amazon. I replaced the lights outside by my front door using their 2-way timer and this review is covering the install of their 3-way timer for the lights outside my garage. I had originally bought two of the 2-way timers not knowing the difference and ended up returning one. Apparently the 3-way works with either and is the same price. Go figure…
One cool thing about these timers is that they have a built-in rechargeable battery. This means that if the electricity goes out, you won’t lose your settings. The timer I had previously was terrible. It was an old Intermatic that the previous owners used and had no backup battery and was very hard to set up. It was such a pain every time the electricity went out and I had to end up calling over an electrician like those at Aardvark electric (try it out) to come and sort out the electricals. In the end, this prompted me to look for replacements. This prompted me to look for replacements.
I purchased and am using both products below:

Honeywell 7-Day RPLS730B Programmable Timer (2-way)

Honeywell RPLS530A 7-Day Programmable Timer Switch, White (3-way)
Both are currently $22 on Amazon and according to Honeywell’s website the 530a can be used with either a two-way or 3-way switch.
from Honeywell:
RPLS530A:
Here’s the manual if you’re interested. I’m no electrician but below is what worked for me.
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Tools needed:
Phillips Screwdriver
Slot Screwdriver
Wire stripper (optional)
Needle-nose pliers
Step One – Turn off the electricity to your outlet (I also use gloves as a second precaution)
Step Two – Remove the plate
Use your phillips or slot screwdriver to remove the plate. After removing the plate, this is what it looks like.

Step Three – Remove the screw from your old switch.
I removed the screws and pulled out the switch (using the needle-nose pliers) so I can get access to the wires. Here’s what the back of the switch looks like in a three-way switch. Notice that there is one red wire and two black wires. The black wires are hot and carry current.

Step Four – remove these electric wires form the switch
I used a phillips screwdriver to remove all three wires.
Step Five – Unpack the contents of the dimmer
Below is what the back of the dimmer looks like.

Step Six – Connect the wires using wire caps as follows:
C – the common wire (I connected the bottom right black wire in the 2nd picture here)
1 – I put the red wire here
2 – I put the other black wire here
Note: The exposed wire on the timer wasn’t very long so I used a wire stripper so I have more room.
Here’s a picture after connecting the wires and attaching the caps.

Step Seven – Turn on the electricity and make sure the screen comes on. This ensures you have hooked it up properly.
Step Eight – I turned the electricity back off and stuffed the wires back into the wall. Again, I used the needle-nose pliers.
Step Nine – Screw the timer into the holes in the dry wall so it is sitting level with your other switch and the plate will fit.
Step Ten – Now put the plate back on and screw into the wall.
Here’s the final product:

Programming is simple and instructions are included. You can program each day different or every day the same.
I hope this was helpful!
This Honeywell product was just what I was looking for, thanks for the head-up, it works a treat.
The timer switches have a 40 watt minimum, so it’s possible the LEDs will not provide sufficient load for these switches.
I bought Honeywell RPLS540A to replace one of the two 3 way switches in my living room. One of the 3-way switches has a dimmer option on it which I want to leave as it is. The second one is a regular 3-way switch which I want to replace with the programmable one. The wiring diagram is in their manual (https://customer.honeywell.com/resources/techlit/TechLitDocuments/69-0000s/69-2454EFS.pdf). The current regular 3-way switch has 4 wires going in (Green – Ground, 2 Reds and 1 Black). Now the question is how do I figure out which one is line, load and 3 way? I see that one of the screws (excluding ground) is black and the other two are bronze colored. From what I have read elsewhere, the black one is the COM – common wire. Is this the equivalent of LINE on the honeywell switch? When I called the customer support, they mentioned that the honeywell switch has to be the primary/first switch in a two 3-way switch configuration. I am not sure what they mean by that. Any help would be really appreciated.
Thanks,
Rajesh
Awesome article – “:I’m amazed at how many of these things I actually have.
I have actually read a lot of your blog posts in the last hour. I really enjoy what you are doing here. (And as a writer of fantasy novels, I’m enjoying looking at different aspects of that when you go through them in blog post). And truly, I love world-culture building
According to Honeywell, the RPLS530A requires a minimum 40 watt load in order for the battery to trickle charge. If one believes that, the use of this switch for a 3 way with a 15 watt load (2 7.5 watt LED bulbs) will not work long term. It will work for a while, then it will quit.
Why not tell us how to install the jumper wire on the other 3-way switch so that it will operate the lights when switched on and off.
I connected the jumper cable on my other switch. And the other switch seems to be by-passed now, what i mean by that is when I use honeywell timer switch and turn on the lights then the other switch can not turn off and vice versa. And I cannot use my switches without using the jumper cable. Which means I made my 3way configuration to single pole. Is this what happens with this switch? Or am I doing something wrong? Please suggest.
Great article 😉
Important Cautionary Note! You want to make sure that you are being safe and that means that you need to turn off the power to the circuit that you are working on. You want to make sure that you are working with a tester and that you also check this as well on your own.
Can you please recommend a timer switch that will work with a low watt bulb??
stay tuned. I have an updated post coming out with a new timer for low watt bulbs (led’s). I’ve changed out 6 so far and they work flawlessly.
Timers shouldn’t impact whether you use CFL or LED bulbs. So, you should be able to continue to use the existing timer.